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Basting Stitch is the longest stitch on the machine.
Speed basting is a feature found on many machines, making
stitches up to 1" long or more. Check your manual. Speed
basting can be used for all basting purposes, but should be
tested first on your fabric: Some machines make "empty"
stitches between the long ones, and the line of needle holes
might show. Hold the fabric taut in front and back, because
the basting has a tendency to bunch up the fabric behind the
needle.
In Ease-Stitching and Gathering, the line of
stitching is drawn up to give either ease or fullness.
Understitching is a line of stitching done on a
facing or the underside of a collar. Made close to the edge to
prevent seams from rolling to the outside, it does not
show.
Stitching in the Ditch means stitching on the right
side, in pressed-open seam, to fasten another piece of
fabric underneath. It is here shown on a neck facing (26, 27).
Done with matching thread and regular stitch length, it is
invisible on the outside because it disappears into the
"ditch" of the seam. Draw thread-ends through to wrong side,
tie and clip.
Stay-Stitching is a line of
directional stitching, made before construction, to stabilize
edges that might be pulled out of shape in handling. It can
safely be omitted on fabrics that are firmly woven or tightly
knitted. It is a must, however, on off-grain in loosely-woven
fabrics, also on bias edges and knits where the stretch needs
control. On curved edges that will be clipped later,
stay-stitching helps prevent the clipping from weakening the
seam.
Stay-stitching is done on the separate garment
pieces, the first thing after cutting and marking, through a
single thickness. When an interfacing or an underling is
added, however, the stitching that attaches it serves as
stay-stitching, and is done directionally where required.
The diagram shows where stay-stitching is usually needed,
and the arrow show how to do it directionally. Using regular
stitch length, stitch ½" from the raw edge (to keep clear of
the seam line). At a zipper opening, stay-stitch ¼" from raw
edge.
from: COATS & CLARK; Sewing A TO
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